Fall Climbing in Telluride, Colorado
Aspen leaves above Telluride, Colorado.
This fall, in the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic, I had the opportunity to spend some time in one of my “homes”— Telluride, Colorado. Late September and early October bring spectacular colors to the Colorado Rockies as the aspen leaves change from green to yellow, gold, and fiery orange. The days lose their sweltering heat and become crisp and cool, perfect for climbing. Everything slows down as summer travelers return home for the school year. Autumn is one of my favorite times to be in Colorado.
Due to a shortage of local guides, I agreed to guide for a service in Telluride for a couple weeks in early October. Most trips were on the famous Telluride Via Ferrata, but I also guided a trip on the new Ouray Via Ferrata and a multi-pitch rock climb above Telluride on the incredible Pipeline Wall.
High above the ground on the Telluride Via Ferrata.
The Telluride Via Ferrata was the first via ferrata in the United States. In World War 1, Italy and Austria fought along their border in the Alps, and military leaders soon learned that the fastest way to move troops through the rugged mountain terrain was to literally build ladders across vertical cliff faces. After the wars, people started enjoying the via ferratas recreationally, and local Telluride climber Chuck Kroger decided that Telluride needed one as well, building it incognito. Many years later, the Telluride Mountain Club and local guide services have stepped in to ensure its safety and upkeep. Somewhere between a hike and a climb, the Telluride Via Ferrata is a great way to enjoy the fall colors in Telluride, while also getting some air under your feet. It’s also a great “rest day” activity while enjoying a rock climbing trip in Telluride, Ouray, or nearby Moab, UT.
Three pitches off the ground on Skylight Arete, 5.7, at the Pipeline Wall in Telluride.
Telluride is known for its skiing and ice climbing, but the rock climbing in the area is also excellent. From single pitch sport climbing on the Telluride Conglomerate to multi-pitch trad routes on the nearby Ophir Wall, there is plenty of good stone for a three or four day climbing trip. The local climbing repertoire is bolstered by the nearby destinations of Ouray, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and the Utah Canyonlands. My friend Steven saw that I was in the area via Instagram Story, and contacted me for a day of multi-pitch climbing in Telluride. With warm temperatures and vibrant fall colors, we opted for Ames Way to Skylight Arete, a 3-pitch 5.7 route in the Telluride valley that ends on the Via Ferrata. After climbing the route, you can either rappel to the ground or continue on the Via for a multi-sport day. It’s a fun route with killer position, and it was one of my best days this fall.
The final moves of the Ames Way to Skylight Arete linkup (3 pitches, 5.7) above Telluride.
I also made it out to the Utah desert for a couple days, climbing in Indian Creek. “The Creek” is mecca for crack climbers, as well as a great place to improve your crack climbing technique, learn trad gear placements, and spend some time unplugged in the beautiful desert southwest.
Evening light above Donnelly Canyon and Supercrack Buttress, Indian Creek, Utah.
Now I’m in Red Rocks for a couple weeks, chasing warm weather. As I write this, a cold front is lining up to slam the Northern Rockies with a couple feet of snow, and some friends are already making turns in Montana. I’m sure I’ll switch into ski mode soon, but I’m excited for a few more weeks of warmth first.